Elysium
A Milestone in Haute Horlogerie
Roger Dubuis has continuously operated at the intersection of tradition and avant-garde innovation. As the Maison celebrates its 30th anniversary, it unveils a timepiece that pays homage to its founding spirit while boldly embracing the future: the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar.
This exceptional creation isn’t just a commemorative watch—it’s a reaffirmation of Roger Dubuis’ mission: to defy convention and elevate the art of watchmaking.
Celebrating 30 Years with a Biretrograde Legacy
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar directly echoes the DNA of the Maison’s first timepiece launched in 1996. The signature biretrograde display—one of Mr. Roger Dubuis’ favorite innovations—returns in a refreshed, expressive form.
The retrograde mechanism, patented initially in the 1980s by Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, uses a complex ensemble of cams, rakes, and springs to ensure the calendar hands’ rhythmic yet precise return after completing their semi-circular journey.
Now enhanced for the modern connoisseur, this feature reflects the founder’s pursuit of expressive mechanics—a tribute to his heart and creativity.
Design Excellence Rooted in Heritage
- Case Size: 40mm – a refined homage to 1990s proportions.
- Material: 18K pink gold with a white mother-of-pearl dial, an aesthetic Roger Dubuis pioneered in gentleman’s watches.
- Strap: 3D brown calfskin leather with a triple-folding clasp in pink gold, fully interchangeable.
These choices aren’t just cosmetic—they echo a heritage-inspired watch design ethos that balances elegance, function, and theatricality.
Classic Aesthetic Signatures:
- Symmetrical biretrograde scales—broad at the edge, narrowing inward.
- Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock.
- Heritage font at noon featuring the Geneva Seal certified watch insignia.
Inside the RD840 Calibre: Mechanical Artistry
The beating heart of this luxury calendar watch 2025 is the Calibre RD840, an automatic movement engineered with:
- 60-hour power reserve
- Hand-finished detailing on every component
- Poinçon de Genève certification, reflecting the highest levels of craftsmanship
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals a skeletonized oscillating weight—a modernized homage to the 1996 original, with a quote from the founders elegantly engraved:
“C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient.”
(“This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.”)
Watches and Wonders 2025: A Global Stage for Innovation
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar captures global attention as a highlight of the Geneva event. It’s not merely a product—it’s a philosophical statement.
Why It Matters:
- Bridges tradition with forward-looking innovation.
- A rare blend of artisanal techniques and technical excellence.
- Limited production ensures exclusivity and collectability.
Technical Specifications at a Glance
- Case: 18K pink gold, 40mm
- Dial: White mother-of-pearl
- Strap: Brown calfskin, 3D design
- Clasp: Pink gold, triple-folding
- Movement: Automatic RD840
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
- Certification: Geneva Seal
FAQs: What You Should Know
Q: What is a biretrograde display?
A: It’s a system where calendar hands move in a semi-circular path, then jump back to zero in a retrograde motion, requiring intricate mechanics.
Q: Is this watch certified?
A: The timepiece is Geneva Seal certified, ensuring hand-finished excellence.
Q: Can I change the strap?
A: Absolutely. It features an interchangeable leather strap with a triple-folding pink gold clasp
Q: What is the power reserve?
A: The RD840 movement delivers a 60-hour power reserve.
A Timeless Fusion of Innovation and Heritage
The Geneva Seal certified watch represents more than a technical accomplishment—it embodies Roger Dubuis’s unwavering dedication to artistry, finishing, and prestige. As an accurate luxury calendar watch, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar merges traditional mastery with cutting-edge design, powered by the in-house RD840 movement, known for its reliability and hand-decorated sophistication. Its sapphire crystal caseback reveals the full beauty of this mechanical marvel, allowing collectors to witness the finesse of each component in motion.
The symmetrical biretrograde scales, a hallmark of the Maison’s expressive visual language, ensure the dial remains functional and dramatic. This timepiece is a refined example of heritage-inspired watch design, bringing together three decades of horological excellence in one perfectly proportioned creation.
Interesting Facts & Celebrity Ties About Roger Dubuis
1. Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe veteran.
Before founding his namesake brand, Mr. Roger Dubuis spent 14 years crafting complications at Patek Philippe—a legacy that gave the brand instant credibility upon launch in 1995.
2. One of the youngest brands to earn full Geneva Seal certification.
Unlike most watchmakers who certify a few models, Roger Dubuis certifies every watch with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, setting an unmatched standard in the luxury segment.
3. Champion of hyper horology.
Dubuis coined the term “Hyper Horology™” to define its radical blend of traditional craftsmanship with sci-fi aesthetics, skeletonized designs, and outrageous complications.
4. The brand is a favorite of elite celebrities and athletes.
Stars like Gerard Butler, Nick Jonas, Usher, and Michael Jordan have been wearing Roger Dubuis, especially from the Excalibur and Knights of the Round Table collections.
5. Strong ties to motorsports and Lamborghini.
Roger Dubuis has an official partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse, creating engine-inspired timepieces with visible “V-shaped” bridges mimicking supercar engines, especially the Excalibur Spider line.
6. Roger Dubuis watches are extremely limited.
Most models are made in tiny quantities (often under 88 pieces)—preserving exclusivity and fueling collector demand.
7. The Knights of the Round Table series is legendary.
Each edition features hand-sculpted knights as hour markers, made from materials like gold or enamel, with dials crafted from volcanic glass, Murano mosaics, or even meteorite fragments.
8. Roger Dubuis collaborated with Pirelli.
Yes—the tire manufacturer. Some watches use rubber from actual race-worn Pirelli tires in their straps, reinforcing the brand’s performance DNA.
9. Owned by Richemont, but fiercely independent.
Though part of the Richemont Group, Roger Dubuis maintains a rare level of in-house production, even crafting its own silicon escapements and flying tourbillons.
10. The Geneva manufacture is like a horological art studio.
Each timepiece is built under one roof, where watchmakers work in glass-walled ateliers, surrounded by micro-engineers, artisans, and polishers who apply over 30 hours of hand finishing per movement.
