Elysium
Few names carry as much weight when discussing the epitome of craftsmanship in watchmaking as Breguet. With a legacy spanning centuries, Breguet’s dedication to artistry and innovation is vividly showcased in its latest creation: the Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025, a tribute to the Chinese Zodiac sign of the Snake. This extraordinary timepiece, limited to eight numbered pieces, celebrates the convergence of traditional techniques, artistic excellence, and technical mastery.
A Historical Legacy of Guilloché Mastery
The art of guilloché engraving has been a hallmark of Breguet since 1786 when the Maison first introduced its finely guilloché silver and gold dials. This meticulous technique, performed on century-old guilloché lathes, enables artisans to create intricate patterns with unparalleled precision. These machines operated manually, extend the artisan’s skill, allowing designs to be shaped to the nearest tenth of a millimeter.
Each stroke and curve reveals the engraver’s sensitivity and dexterity, transforming the dial into a canvas of horological art. For the Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025, the Maison employs its mastery of guilloché to capture the elegance and symbolism of the snake, a creature revered in Chinese culture for its wisdom, intuition, and transformative qualities.
The Dial: A Masterpiece of Craftsmanship
At the heart of the Classique 7145 is a stunning 18K gold dial that harmonizes multiple artisanal techniques. The guilloché engraving is meticulously hand-etched to depict the snake in a dynamic and lifelike pose. To enhance the depth and dimension of the motif, Breguet applies a black coating that contrasts strikingly with the gold surface.
This is followed by a layer of translucent miniature painting, accentuating shades of deep green and sea green to elevate the foliage surrounding the snake. The interplay of these colors adds depth while preserving the engraving’s artisanal essence. The dial is further adorned with discreet 18K rose gold dots marking the hours and features Breguet’s signature open-tipped pomme hands, a hallmark of timeless elegance.
A Testament to Technical Excellence: The Movement
Breguet’s caliber 502.3 is a marvel of horological engineering. Measuring just 2.4mm in thickness, it is among the thinnest automatic movements in production today. Comprising 162 meticulously crafted components and 35 jewels, this movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 45-hour power reserve.
A notable feature of the caliber 502.3 is its off-center automatic winding mechanism, powered by a 22K gold rotor. The rotor, hand-engraved with a barleycorn guilloché motif, reflects the Maison’s commitment to combining functionality with aesthetic excellence. Crafted entirely in-house, the movement represents the culmination of Breguet’s expertise, ensuring precision and reliability.
The Case: Elegance in Every Detail
Encasing this extraordinary dial and movement is an 18K rose gold case with a fluted case band, a signature design element of Breguet. The case exudes understated sophistication, measuring 40mm in diameter and 6.5mm in thickness. The sapphire crystal case back, treated with an anti-reflective coating, offers a clear view of the intricate movement.
The watch is water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters), providing durability without compromising elegance. The 21mm lug width and 47.8mm lug-to-lug distance ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist, while the rose gold crown adds a touch of refinement.
A Nod to Chinese Culture
The Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025 pays homage to the Chinese Zodiac sign of the Snake, a symbol of wisdom, mystery, and transformation. Through its intricate hand-engraved dial and luxurious design, the timepiece captures the essence of this revered creature, making it a fitting tribute for the Lunar New Year.
Exclusivity and Presentation
The Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025 is a rare collector’s item limited to eight numbered pieces. The recommended price is 69,000 CHF. Each watch is housed in a bespoke presentation box crafted to reflect the elegance and artistry of the timepiece within. The exclusivity of this edition underscores its value, making it a coveted addition to any horological collection.
Technical Specifications
Case:
- Material: 18K rose gold
- Diameter: 40mm
- Thickness: 6.5mm
- Fluted case band
- Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial:
- Material: 18K gold
- Hand-guilloché and engraved
- Hand-painted translucent green miniature on foliage
- Rose gold hour markers
- Open-tipped pomme hands
Movement:
- Caliber: 502.3 automatic movement
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Components: 162
- Jewels: 35
- Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
- Rotor: Hand-guilloché 22K gold
Strap:
- Material: Alligator leather
- Buckle: Rose gold ardillon
Exclusivity:
- Limited Edition: 8 numbered pieces
Conclusion
The Breguet Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025 is more than a timepiece; it is a work of art that embodies the Maison’s centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship and innovation. With its intricate guilloché engraving, hand-painted details, and technically advanced movement, this watch is a timeless celebration of artistry and culture. For discerning collectors and enthusiasts, the Classique 7145 represents an opportunity to own a piece of horological history crafted with the utmost care and precision by the artisans of Breguet.
Breguet: A Timeless Legacy in Watchmaking
The Foundations: Abraham-Louis Breguet (1775 – 1823)
Abraham-Louis Breguet, born in Neuchâtel in 1747, is celebrated as one of history’s most influential watchmakers. His journey began in his teenage years when he left his homeland to complete his apprenticeship in Versailles and Paris. By 1775, he had established his workshop on the Quai de l’Horloge in the Île de la Cité, Paris, marking the beginning of a legendary career.
Key Milestones in the Early Years:
- 1775: Opened his workshop in Paris, establishing his reputation among the French court and aristocracy. The workshop overlooked the Quai de l’Horloge and Place Dauphine, becoming the epicenter of horological innovation.
- 1780: Developed the first automatic watches, known as “perpétuelles,” eliminating the need for manual winding.
- 1783: Commissioned to create the “Marie-Antoinette” watch, incorporating every complication known at the time.
- 1786: Introduced guilloché engraving on watch dials, enhancing aesthetics and functionality.
- 1790: Invented the pare-chute shock absorber, protecting delicate mechanisms from impact damage.
- 1793: Fled to Switzerland during the French Revolution but managed to maintain operations remotely.
- 1795: Returned to Paris and introduced the subscription watch, a more accessible and simplified timepiece.
- 1799: Created the tact watch, allowing wearers to tell the time by touch.
Revolutionary Innovations and Prestigious Clients (1801 – 1823)
During this period, Breguet achieved several groundbreaking advancements:
- 1801: Secured a patent for the tourbillon, a revolutionary mechanism to counteract gravitational forces and improve timekeeping accuracy.
- 1810: Designed the first wristwatch, commissioned by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples.
- 1815: Appointed Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy, the highest honor in marine chronometry.
- 1820: Introduced the “chronomètre à doubles secondes,” an early form of the modern chronograph.
Transition and Expansion: Antoine-Louis Breguet (1823 – 1870)
Following Abraham-Louis Breguet’s death in 1823, his son, Antoine-Louis Breguet, took over the company. He continued his father’s legacy, focusing on precision instruments and expanding the brand’s reach internationally.
Key Highlights:
- Expanded the international clientele to include prominent figures such as Tsar Alexander I of Russia and the Ottoman Sultan Selim III.
- Continued producing marine chronometers and other high-precision instruments.
- Developed keyless winding mechanisms, simplifying watch operation.
The Brown Family Era (1870 – 1970)
In 1870, the Breguet family sold the company to Edward Brown, the workshop manager. Under the Brown family’s stewardship, the brand survived economic challenges, world wars, and shifting market demands while maintaining its commitment to fine watchmaking.
Significant Developments:
- Introduced the Type XX chronograph in 1954, a pilot’s watch designed for the French military.
- Opened a boutique on Place Vendôme in 1933, establishing a prestigious presence in Paris.
Revitalization Under New Ownership (1970 – 1999)
In 1970, the Chaumet brothers acquired Breguet, followed by Investcorp in 1987. This era saw a renewed focus on high-end watchmaking and the development of complicated timepieces.
Key Achievements:
- Established a workshop in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, in 1976.
- Acquired Nouvelle Lémania in 1991, integrating movement manufacturing into the brand.
- Revived iconic models, such as the Marie-Antoinette watch, in limited editions.
A New Era with the Swatch Group (1999 – Present)
In 1999, Breguet became part of the Swatch Group under the leadership of Nicolas G. Hayek. Significant investments in manufacturing and innovation restored the brand to its former glory.
Modern Milestones:
- 2002: Launched the Reine de Naples collection, featuring the first modern wristwatch with a moon-phase mechanism.
- 2006: Introduced silicon components for enhanced precision and durability.
- 2010: Released the Classique Chronometrie 7727, equipped with a magnetic pivot for superior timekeeping.
- 2015: Expanded the Manufacture in L’Orient, Switzerland, reinforcing its commitment to Swiss watchmaking excellence.
- 2023: Unveiled the new Type XX chronograph, blending heritage with contemporary design.
Inventions That Shaped Watchmaking
Breguet’s legacy is built on innovations that revolutionized horology, including:
- Tourbillon (1801): A regulator to improve accuracy.
- Guilloché (1786): Enhanced dial design and functionality.
- Pare-Chute (1790): The first shock absorber for watches.
- Off-Center Dials (1812): Improved readability and design.
- High-Frequency Movements (2010): Introduced mechanisms operating at 10Hz for unparalleled precision.
Timeless Appeal
Today, Breguet remains synonymous with luxury, innovation, and craftsmanship. From its historical roots on the Quai de l’Horloge to its modern-day headquarters in Switzerland, the brand continues to create timepieces that honor its founder’s vision while embracing contemporary advancements. Breguet has a legacy spanning nearly 250 years and is a testament to watchmaking’s enduring art.
